A Report from Russia -- Part 3 of 4
Hello All,
I am sending this from Irkutsk, Russia on July 20. Report 18 was about my experiences in loading Bubba aboard ship in Niigata, Japan. The Great Adventure traveling across Russia began at Vladivostok (report 19). I reached Khabarosk midday 6 July after parking for the night at a police checkpoint 200 kms. south of Khabarosk.
I checked in to the Iris Hotel and the following day started the paper chase once more at the main police station trying to determine what was needed to drive Bubba in Russia. After a frustrating afternoon, I was told to return on Saturday and the situation would be resolved. I returned on Saturday morning and when it was my turn at the window I was told I could not register the vehicle. After a private audience with an official I was told that I did not need to register the vehicle, I already had the necessary paper work to drive the vehicle across Russia. Two days had been wasted and still I wasn't finished.
I returned on Monday morning to get all the fees refunded and make hasty arrangements to get Bubba on a flat car to head for Ulan Ude. >From Khabarosk to Ulan Ude there are no roads that can be driven to get across this part of Siberia. The cost for the trip was 9,000,000 rubles for the 2 vehicles. (The Australian was still traveling with me.) We got the cars loaded late in the afternoon and about 6:00 p.m. on 10 July a shuttle engine hooked up to the railroad car and what was reported to be a three day trip to Ulan Ude began.
We were hooked up to a long line of empty box cars, sat on a siding until 8:00 p.m., and then started the journey westward. It was apparent from the beginning I would not be able to raise the top on the camper. Since the ride was extremely rough, I resigned myself to sleeping in the cab of the truck and eating bread, sausage, cheese and a Pepsi. Not the most wholesome diet, but it staves off the hunger pangs.
The slow freight train to Ulan Ude seems to stop at every town no matter how small. After 2 days of very rough stop and go travel we were deposited in a railroad yard, separated from the train and hooked to another train. I asked what was happening and with the help of another man who was taking a vehicle to Brask, I found out that we were hooked up to the wrong train and it would cost 100,000 rubles for them to unhook us and connect us to the right train. After I paid the fee they promptly moved us to the right train. Later in the day we were off again. On the night of the 13th we were parked at another siding with no engine attached and no one seemed to know when we would be on our way again.
Around 1:00 p.m. we were attached to another string of cars and once again we were moving, only to stop at the next town where several policemen boarded the railroad car and began searching the camper, requesting documents for the radio, computer and several other things. They threaten to confiscate the things they mentioned. They also stated there was too much fuel in the fuel tanks and I should not have a propane tank. After much discussion, they settled for $30.00 U.S. and several boxes of Kleenex. I was very relieved when they got off the railroad car and left. However, it was rather upsetting.
Later that evening we were on the tracks again and moved along well all night. Early the next morning, the 14th, the train stopped and we were left at yet another siding. It was still at least 800 kms. from Ulan Ude. Needless to say, all these delays are frustrating especially since no one else seems to be concerned about this.
I took advantage of the stop and went shopping at 3 small stores in the town. I ended up with a can of meat, some pineapple juice and a can of unknown fish. The Australian stayed on the train expecting that I would bring something back for both of us. He hasn't offered to reimburse any of the expenses. For 3 days I have extended my hospitality to him which he seems to expect since he has not expressed his appreciation in any way.
Late in the day we were attached to yet another train, which traveled at a fast pace all night and part of the following day only to be parked for the night again with no indication of when we would be on our way. The whole situation would be very comical at this stage if it were not so frustrating. The night of the 16th was spent only 15 kms. from Ulan Ude with the promise of a shuttle engine to come at 5:00 a.m. and take us to Ulan Ude to finish the journey. At 7:00 a.m. the shuttle engine arrived and we continued on to Ulan Ude only to be left in the yard all alone with no one around at 8:00 a.m. It appeared that this was the time the shift changed.
About 9:00 a.m., two hours after we had arrived, a man with a brief case showed up and a shuttle engine came along and took us to a siding with a platform where we would be able to drive the cars off, but there was no one around to direct us.
A friendly policeman came over and I asked him what I needed to do. He took me to an office. There they told me the paper work had not arrived yet and we would have to wait (for who knew how long) until the paper work arrived from the railroad yard. I left the Australian in the office while I went to get the vehicles ready to unload. He came back with a frantic look on his face saying they wanted 287,000 rubles before we would be allowed to unload. He only had 40,000 rubles left, what should he do. I paid the bill and we finally got off the railway car. He gave me $50.00 U.S. and we both depart the railroad yard and Ulan Ude about 11:00 a.m. Several miles out of town he passed me enroute to Irkutsk. I never saw him again.
With all of the stops, the three day trip to Ulan Ude took seven days. Now that this part of the trip is over, I can look back and laugh at all the things that happened.
Everyone take care of yourselves and do the right thing.
As Always,
Bubba and Roger
REPORT 21: Part 4 - From Ulan Ude to Irkutsk